I got an Airbnb in Belgrade for a month in June 2020 during COVID. Honestly, it wasn’t really a choice – Serbia was one of the first European countries to open up for Americans when everything else was locked down. Friends had recommended it before, so we figured why not give it a shot.
Spoiler alert: we ended up leaving a week early. After about three weeks, Croatia opened up for Americans, and since we knew Split would be way better, we just bailed on our Belgrade Airbnb. Best decision we made.
What Belgrade Actually Is
Belgrade is Serbia’s capital and my first (and only) time in the Balkans. It’s got this weird second-world vibe that I just couldn’t get into. You can tell it’s not quite EU-level development, and there’s this strange Balkan Slavic energy that felt off to me.
The city has about 1.2 million people and sits where two rivers meet, which should be scenic. But walking around, you’re constantly reminded of the 1990s wars – there are still bombed-out buildings that were never repaired just sitting there decades later.
It gives the whole place this unfinished, slightly depressing feel that you can’t escape. Like the city is stuck in some weird post-war limbo instead of moving forward.
The Scam Welcome
First impression was terrible and set the tone for everything. We got a taxi from the airport and of course some guy approaches us. My brother asked for the meter, guy says “yes, meter” – classic fake meter scam.
Should have been like a $15 ride, he wanted $60. I gave him $50 and told him that’s all I had, then had to argue with this guy while jet-lagged. Really bad way to start the trip and put me on edge about getting scammed the whole time.
Lesson learned: Always take Uber, never the airport taxi guys. But it’s a shitty introduction to a city when the first local you meet tries to rip you off.
The People and Strange Social Vibe
Serbians are… fine. English is actually pretty good, which was helpful. But there’s this weird social dynamic where people seem kind of closed off in their own groups. It felt hard to connect with locals or even meet people through normal social situations.
The whole city has this strange energy – not quite hostile, but not welcoming either. Kind of like everyone’s just getting by rather than actually enjoying life. There’s no energy or enthusiasm that you feel in other European cities.
It creates this atmosphere where you feel like an outsider just passing through, which I guess is exactly what most visitors are doing.
What’s Actually Good: It’s Cheap and Outside the EU
Belgrade’s entire value proposition boils down to two things: it’s cheap and it’s outside the EU. That’s really it.
Outside the EU means your money goes way further, and more importantly for digital nomads – you can reset your 90-day Schengen clock here. This is really Belgrade’s main function in the European travel ecosystem.
Pricing Breakdown
- Month-long Airbnb: €300-500 for something decent
- Good meals: €5-10
- Local beer: €1-2
- Coffee: €1-1.50
- Uber rides: €2-5 within the city
- Daily budget: €25-40 for comfortable living
The affordability is genuinely impressive – you can live well for very little money compared to Western European standards.
Digital Nomad Reality: Visa Reset Destination
If you’ve maxed out your Schengen visa and need to spend time outside the EU while staying relatively close to European amenities, Belgrade works. It’s got decent internet, cheap accommodation, and English is spoken.
But let’s be honest – you’re not here because you want to be here. You’re here because you have to be somewhere outside Schengen territory, and Belgrade happens to be a cheap option with basic infrastructure.
Digital Nomad Rating: 5.5/10
Functions adequately for visa reset purposes but lacks the energy, amenities, and social scene that make destinations appealing for remote workers.
Tourism Reality: Limited Content
Here’s the thing about Belgrade as a tourist destination – there just isn’t that much to see or do. After spending a month there, I can confidently say you can see everything Belgrade has to offer in about 2-3 days max.
The Limited Attractions
- Kalemegdan Fortress: Genuinely cool old Roman fortress with good views where the rivers meet. Worth seeing
- Knez Mihailova street: Main pedestrian area with shops and cafes, feels properly European
- St. Sava Temple: Large Orthodox church, worth a quick visit
- Skadarlija: “Bohemian quarter” but feels pretty touristy and artificial
Day Trip Reality
Day trip options are basically non-existent. You could go to Novi Sad, but it’s just another Serbian city. There’s no charming countryside, no impressive natural areas nearby, no historic towns worth visiting.
The fact that Belgrade gets marketed as a destination for longer stays is honestly misleading – there just isn’t enough content to justify it unless you’re purely there for cheap living costs.
Food Scene: Heavy Balkan Fare
Serbian food is heavy Balkan stuff – lots of grilled meats, ćevapi (grilled sausages), pljeskavica (Serbian burger), and kajmak (creamy cheese). It’s filling and cheap, but not particularly exciting.
The quality was decent for the price. Nothing amazing, but you won’t go hungry and your wallet won’t hurt. It serves its function without being memorable or inspiring.
The Nightlife Weirdness
Belgrade supposedly has this amazing nightlife that gets hyped on social media. Reality was way different and honestly weird.
There are no obvious venues in the center – you apparently need to “know where to go,” which is useless for tourists. We found these riverboat clubs on the water, but the whole scene was bizarre.
The River Club Experience
You need to be on a guest list to get in. We weren’t, so had to text some guy who eventually let us in. Once inside, it’s typical Balkan nightlife – people just sitting at tables with their own groups.
Very cliquish, hard to meet anyone new. It felt more like exclusive private parties than actual nightlife where you can socialize and meet people. The whole thing was more hassle than it was worth.
The Second-World Reality
This is Belgrade’s biggest problem. It just doesn’t feel like a developed European city. Those bombed buildings from the 90s still sitting there, infrastructure that feels neglected, and this general sense that things are just barely functioning.
Coming from other Central European cities like Kraków, the difference is stark. Poland feels like it’s moved on and developed; Belgrade feels stuck in some weird post-war limbo.
You’re constantly reminded that this isn’t quite Europe as you know it – it’s something in between Europe and whatever comes after war and economic struggle.
Why We Left Early
After about three weeks, Croatia opened up for Americans. Since Croatia is right next door and we knew Split would be way better (ocean, beaches, proper European development), we just bailed on our Belgrade Airbnb early.
Best decision we made. Split was everything Belgrade wasn’t – developed, scenic, genuinely enjoyable. The contrast was immediate and dramatic.
Sometimes your gut feeling about a place is right, and Belgrade just felt wrong from the beginning.
Practical Information
- Visa: No visa needed for Americans for 90 days. Serbia isn’t in EU, so different rules
- Weather in June: Hot and humid, around 25-30°C. Decent summer weather
- Transportation: Public transport cheap, Uber works well and affordable
- Language: English proficiency is pretty good
- Currency: Serbian dinar (not Euro)
Belgrade vs. Other European Options
For a European summer, Belgrade just doesn’t compete. Why would you choose this over:
- Croatia’s coast
- Poland’s cities
- Czech Republic
- Hungary
- Literally anywhere in proper Europe
The only advantage is price, but the experience gap is huge. You get what you pay for, and sometimes saving money isn’t worth the compromised experience.
Who Belgrade Actually Works For
You Might Need Belgrade If:
- You’ve maxed out your Schengen visa and need to reset the 90-day clock
- You’re specifically interested in Balkan history
- You prioritize budget over literally everything else
- You’re doing comprehensive Balkans travel
- You need a cheap European-ish base for remote work
Skip Belgrade If:
- You have other European options available
- You want developed tourist infrastructure
- You prefer scenic or culturally rich destinations
- You value your time and want memorable experiences
- You’re not dealing with visa limitations
The Real Function of Belgrade
Belgrade is essentially a European visa reset destination. It’s where you go when you can’t be in the EU but want to stay nearby. That’s its actual role in the travel ecosystem.
It’s not a destination – it’s a place you end up when you don’t have better options. Understanding this helps set appropriate expectations.
If you’re not doing visa logistics or on an extremely tight budget, there’s really no compelling reason to choose Belgrade over dozens of better European options.
My Brutal Bottom Line
Overall Rating: 4.5/10
Belgrade is cheap, and that’s about it. The weird vibe, the second-world feel, the bombed buildings, the strange nightlife scene – it all adds up to a place that just feels off.
If you’re on a tight budget and need somewhere to stay in Europe-adjacent territory for a while, it works. But it’s not a destination in any meaningful sense.
The harsh truth: Belgrade exists as a cheap, non-Schengen European option when you don’t have better choices. When you have options, Belgrade doesn’t compete.
The Croatia Lesson
We learned this lesson and cut our stay short. Sometimes your gut feeling about a place is right, and when better options become available, there’s no shame in cutting losses.
The contrast between Belgrade and Split was immediate and dramatic – it reinforced that not all European destinations are created equal, and sometimes the budget option isn’t worth the compromised experience.
Travel is about experiences, not just checking boxes or saving money. Belgrade taught us that lesson clearly.
Have you been to Belgrade or other Balkan cities? Did you find the post-war atmosphere as off-putting as I did, or did you discover something appealing I missed? How do you handle destinations that feel like “visa reset” cities rather than real travel experiences? Share your Balkans stories in the comments!
