I spent a month in Gothenburg with my brother during July 2020, and I’m going to give you the unfiltered truth about Sweden’s second-largest city. This isn’t going to be your typical “everything’s amazing in Scandinavia” travel blog post.
Gothenburg has some genuinely nice qualities – decent infrastructure, pleasant summer weather, and that clean European efficiency you’d expect from Sweden. But between the eye-watering costs, demographic realities, and COVID restrictions that killed any chance of experiencing real nightlife, I left feeling pretty lukewarm about the whole experience.
First Impressions: Clean, Cozy, and Expensive
Gothenburg sits on Sweden’s west coast with about 580,000 people – big enough to feel like a real city, small enough that you won’t get overwhelmed. The infrastructure is solid, streets are spotless, and everything works with that trademark Scandinavian efficiency.
The city center is built around canals with wide boulevards that make for pleasant walking. You can see the Dutch influence from way back in the 1600s when they helped design the place. It’s got that relaxed, manageable European feel without being as intense as Stockholm.
But here’s where things get interesting – and not necessarily in a good way.
The Cultural Reality Nobody Talks About
This is probably going to be the most controversial part of this review, but I’m going to be honest about what I observed during my month there.
The demographic situation in Gothenburg is pretty dramatic. There are tons of immigrants throughout the city, particularly from Middle Eastern and African countries. In places like the Nordstan shopping center downtown, Swedish people are clearly the minority.
When you’re walking through the city center, you’ll hear way more Arabic and other languages than Swedish. It’s honestly jarring when you’re expecting to experience Swedish culture and instead find yourself in what feels like a completely different country.
I’m not making a political statement here – just describing what you’ll actually encounter if you visit expecting a traditionally Swedish cultural experience.
Brief History: From Port City to Modern Reality
Gothenburg was founded in 1621 by King Gustav II Adolf as Sweden’s gateway to Western Europe. The Dutch helped plan the early city, which explains those canals you see everywhere.
It became Sweden’s industrial powerhouse – companies like Volvo and SKF were founded here, giving the city its working-class character. Being Sweden’s main port shaped its international character, historically through trade and more recently through immigration patterns that have completely transformed the city.
Getting Around: Efficient But Pricey
Public transport is excellent – trams and buses cover the city efficiently, and everything runs on time like clockwork. The city center is very walkable with good connections to other Swedish cities and ferries to Denmark.
Main areas worth knowing:
- Avenyn: The main street through downtown, decent for walking and people-watching
- Haga: Historic neighborhood with cobblestone streets, feels more traditionally Swedish
- Nordstan: Major shopping district (though demographically surprising)
The architecture is fine – clean and functional in that Swedish way, but nothing particularly inspiring or beautiful.
The Brutal Cost Reality
Let me be crystal clear: Gothenburg is stupidly expensive. We’re talking Scandinavian-level pricing that will make your wallet weep.
Daily Expenses Breakdown
- Decent meals: €15-30 ($18-36)
- Beer: €6-8 ($7-10)
- Coffee: €3-5 ($4-6)
- Public transport: €3-4 per ride
- Daily food budget: €40-60 ($48-72)
- Comfortable daily total: €80-120 ($96-144)
Accommodation
- Budget options: €60-100/night
- Mid-range: €100-150/night
- Hostels: €30-50/night
The alcohol prices especially will destroy your budget. This is a major factor in whether Gothenburg makes sense for longer stays.
Weather: Summer Glory, Winter Misery
I was there in July 2020, which is perfect timing weather-wise. Warm but not hot, with those incredibly long Scandinavian summer days that make you feel like you’re living in a different world.
Here’s the seasonal reality:
- Summer (June-August): Absolutely beautiful, long days, everyone comes alive
- Winter: Dark, cold, and genuinely depressing – typical harsh Scandinavian winter
- Spring/Fall: Can be pleasant but often rainy and unpredictable
Sweden is genuinely lovely in summer, but outside those few warm months, it’s pretty rough. The winter darkness and cold completely change the vibe of the entire country.
Food Scene: International by Necessity
Traditional Swedish food is available but honestly not that exciting – meatballs, fish dishes, the usual Scandinavian fare that’s fine but nothing special.
The silver lining? With all the immigrants, there are tons of Middle Eastern, African, and international restaurants everywhere. Actually provides some decent variety.
Places Worth Checking Out
- Sjömagasinet: Expensive seafood with harbor views – quality if you don’t mind the price
- Bhoga: Modern Scandinavian fine dining, creative but pricey
- Dubbel Dubbel: Asian fusion, more reasonable for Gothenburg standards
- Heaven 23: Rooftop spot with city views, good for drinks
- Random kebab places: Everywhere, cheap and filling
The Nightlife Disaster (Thanks, COVID)
This was honestly the most frustrating part of my entire stay. COVID restrictions completely killed any chance of experiencing normal nightlife – everything had to shut down by 10:30 PM and you could only sit down. No standing, no dancing, basically no fun.
Under normal circumstances, these places would probably be decent:
- Nefertiti Jazz Club: Live music venue that seemed promising
- Sticky Fingers: Rock bar that looked like it could be fun
- Brewhouse Inn: Craft beer spot with decent atmosphere
- Park Lane: Nightclub that might actually be good without restrictions
But the COVID reality was completely neutered. Imagine trying to have a night out when everything closes before 11 PM and you can’t even stand up to talk to people. Made it impossible to judge what Gothenburg’s social scene is actually like.
Safety: A Swedish Paradox
Here’s something weird about Sweden that’s the opposite of the US – suburbs are where the problems are, while city centers are generally safe.
While I was there, a police officer got shot in the suburbs, which really highlighted the crime issues in certain outer areas. The downtown felt safe enough during my stay, but there are definitely neighborhoods you want to avoid, especially at night.
It’s not the safety concerns you’d expect in an American city, but it’s not the crime-free paradise some people imagine Scandinavia to be either.
Tourist Attractions: Adequate But Not Amazing
Gothenburg has the standard regional city attractions:
- Liseberg: Major amusement park, one of Scandinavia’s largest
- Gothenburg Museum of Art: Decent collection, typical regional art museum
- Universeum: Science center and aquarium, good for families
- Archipelago tours: Boat trips to nearby islands, popular in summer
- Haga district: Historic area for walking and shopping
Nothing world-class, but adequate for a few days of sightseeing.
Digital Nomad Assessment
Pros:
- Excellent internet infrastructure (world-class Swedish tech)
- Efficient public transport and walkable city center
- Summer weather is genuinely beautiful
- English widely spoken in business contexts
Cons:
- Absolutely brutal costs for everything
- Limited nomad community due to expense
- Terrible weather outside summer months
- Cultural experience isn’t what you’d expect from Sweden
Digital Nomad Rating: 4/10
The high costs alone make it impractical for most remote workers, especially when there are so many better-value alternatives throughout Europe.
Who Should (And Shouldn’t) Visit Gothenburg
You Might Like It If:
- You’re doing a comprehensive Scandinavian tour
- Business requires you to be there
- You’re specifically interested in Swedish maritime history
- Money genuinely isn’t a concern
Skip It If:
- You’re on any kind
