I spent two weeks in Split in July 2020 during COVID, which turned out to be perfect timing. Way fewer crowds than normal, but the city was still alive and the weather was fantastic. I went looking for solid European summer vibes, and Split delivered exactly that.
Sometimes you don’t need a destination to blow your mind or change your life. Sometimes you just want good weather, good food, clear water, and a relaxed vibe. Split does exactly what it says on the tin, and that’s exactly why it works so well.
What Split Actually Is
Split is Croatia’s second-largest city with about 180,000 people, and honestly, it’s got that perfect summer Mediterranean thing going on. It sits right on the Adriatic coast with this amazing old town built literally inside a Roman emperor’s palace.
The whole place has this laid-back, old-school European summer vibe that just works. It’s not trying to be fancy or pretentious – it’s just a genuinely pleasant coastal city where you can eat good food, drink by the water, and island-hop when you feel like it.
Sometimes that’s exactly what you want from travel – no pressure, no must-see attractions that disappoint, just solid Mediterranean living.
The People: Mediterranean Slavic Charm
Croatians are pretty friendly, especially compared to some other Eastern European spots. There’s this relaxed Mediterranean attitude – not quite Italian laid-back, but definitely more chill than Germanic efficiency.
Croatians have this distinctive Southern Slavic look that’s different from their northern neighbors. You’ll notice they tend to be taller with Mediterranean features – darker hair, olive skin tones, and often striking facial features. There’s definitely a recognizable Croatian look that combines Slavic bone structure with Mediterranean warmth.
The summer energy is real. People actually seem to enjoy life here, hanging out in cafes, walking along the waterfront in the evenings. During my two weeks, I got a genuine sense that locals actually like living here, which isn’t something you can say about every tourist destination.
Croatian is the main language, but English is widely spoken, especially with younger people and anyone in tourism. Croatia’s EU membership shows – things feel organized and European rather than chaotic.
The Old Town: Living Inside Roman History
This is Split’s main draw and it’s genuinely cool. The old town is built inside Diocletian’s Palace – a massive Roman palace from 300 AD. You’re literally walking through 1700-year-old walls and living spaces.
But it’s not just a museum. People actually live and work inside these ancient walls. You’ll find restaurants, shops, and apartments all mixed in with Roman columns and medieval additions. It feels alive rather than preserved, which is exactly what historical sites should be.
The whole waterfront promenade (Riva) is perfect for evening walks. People hang out here, street performers do their thing, and you can grab drinks with a view of the harbor. It’s the kind of place that makes European summer evenings feel magical.
Cost of Living: Reasonable Mediterranean Value
Split offers solid value for a Mediterranean destination, especially compared to Italy or France.
Accommodation
- Budget hostels: €15-30/night
- Mid-range hotels: €50-100/night
- Nice hotels: €100-200/night
Daily Expenses
- Decent seafood dinner: €15-25
- Casual meals: €8-15
- Local wine by glass: €3-5
- Coffee: €1.50-2.50
- Gelato: €2-3
- Public transport: €1-2 per ride
- Daily budget: €40-70 for comfortable travel
Nothing feels like a rip-off, which is refreshing for a coastal tourist spot. The pricing reflects genuine value rather than tourist gouging.
Food Scene: Mediterranean Comfort Done Right
Croatian food is basically Mediterranean comfort food done well. Lots of fresh seafood, grilled meats, olive oil, and decent wine. It’s not groundbreaking cuisine, but it’s tasty and fresh.
The seafood is legitimately good since you’re right on the coast. Grilled fish, octopus, mussels – all solid. They do this thing with peka (slow-cooked meat and vegetables under a bell) that’s worth trying.
The local wine scene is underrated too. Croatian wines don’t have the reputation of Italian or French, but they’re definitely drinkable and well-priced.
Beach and Water Reality
The beaches right in Split are okay but nothing special – mostly concrete platforms and pebbles. But that’s not really the point. The real appeal is using Split as a base for island hopping.
The water is incredibly clear and actually warm in summer. Swimming in the Adriatic beats most other European beach experiences – it’s that perfect Mediterranean blue that looks fake in photos but is completely real.
For actual beach time, you’ll want to head to the islands, which is where Split really starts to make sense as a destination.
Island Day Trips: Where Split Really Shines
This is where Split becomes special. The ferry connections to nearby islands are frequent and affordable, making it the perfect base for exploring the Croatian coast.
Top Island Options
- Hvar: The most popular and for good reason. Gorgeous town, great beaches, lavender fields everywhere. About an hour by ferry. Can get crowded but absolutely worth it
- Brač: Less touristy, more authentic island life, great beaches including the famous Zlatni Rat
- Vis: Further out but supposed to be amazing if you have time for a longer trip
Ferry Logistics
- Cost: €5-15 depending on destination
- Frequency: Multiple daily connections to major islands
- Experience: Actually pleasant boat rides with great coastal views
Having two weeks let me really explore these properly instead of rushing through day trips. Each island has its own character and visiting them at a relaxed pace was one of the highlights of the trip.
Weather: July Perfection
July weather was absolutely perfect – hot but not unbearable (around 25-30°C), sunny most days, warm evenings ideal for outdoor dining and waterfront walks.
Seasonal Breakdown
- July-August: Peak summer experience, warmest water, longest days, but most crowds
- June and September: Probably fewer crowds with still good weather
- Spring/Fall: Cooler but potentially good for sightseeing without beach focus
- Winter: Most things probably closed, not much point visiting
The Mediterranean climate really delivers during summer months – this is what people imagine when they think of European coastal holidays.
Nightlife: Relaxed Summer Fun
Split has fun, relaxed nightlife that doesn’t feel forced or overly touristy. The bars along the waterfront are great for evening drinks, and there are some decent clubs if you want to party harder.
It’s not Ibiza-level nightlife, but it’s solid summer fun. Good mix of locals and tourists, decent music, reasonable drink prices. The outdoor terraces are perfect for warm summer nights with harbor views.
During COVID times it was obviously more limited, but even then there was enough going on to keep things interesting without feeling overwhelming.
Digital Nomad Assessment
Pros:
- Beautiful, inspiring Mediterranean environment
- Good internet infrastructure (EU standards)
- Reasonable costs for coastal European destination
- English widely spoken
- Perfect summer lifestyle for work-life balance
- Easy island escapes for weekends
Cons:
- Primarily a summer destination – limited off-season appeal
- Can get crowded during peak season
- Limited coworking infrastructure
- More vacation vibe than serious work environment
- Seasonal business closures off-season
Digital Nomad Rating: 7.5/10
Perfect for summer nomading or lifestyle-focused remote work, but probably not ideal for year-round stays or intensive work periods.
The COVID Timing Advantage
Being there in summer 2020 was actually a blessing. Way fewer crowds than normal, but restaurants and attractions were still open. I got to experience Split without the usual summer tourist chaos, which probably made it even better.
Prices were probably a bit lower too since tourism was down. Sometimes timing works out perfectly – I got the full Split experience without the downsides of overtourism.
Transportation and Practical Info
- Visa: No visa needed for Americans/Canadians/Australians for 90 days (Croatia recently joined Schengen)
- Getting there: Split airport is well-connected, or accessible by bus from other Balkan capitals
- Getting around: Old town is totally walkable, city buses work fine for beaches or ferry port
- Currency: Euro (Croatia adopted it recently)
Who Should (And Shouldn’t) Visit Split
You’ll Love Split If:
- You want classic European summer vibes
- You enjoy island hopping and coastal exploration
- You like mixing history with beach time
- You appreciate good value Mediterranean destinations
- You prefer relaxed travel over intense sightseeing
- You enjoy outdoor dining and waterfront walks
You Might Skip It If:
- You’re looking for world-class beaches right in the city
- You prefer big city energy and cultural attractions
- You’re traveling outside summer months
- You want cutting-edge cuisine or nightlife
- You prefer destinations with major historical significance
How Long to Stay
Two weeks was actually perfect. Long enough to settle into that Mediterranean rhythm, explore the islands properly without rushing, and really appreciate the relaxed pace of life.
A week would give you a good taste, but two weeks let me truly unwind and experience what coastal Croatian living is actually like rather than just checking off tourist boxes.
My Honest Bottom Line
Overall Rating: 8/10
Split is exactly what it promises to be – a pleasant Mediterranean coastal city with good food, nice weather, and easy access to beautiful islands. It’s not trying to blow your mind or revolutionize your travel perspective, just give you a solid European summer experience.
And that’s exactly why it works so well. Sometimes you need destinations that deliver reliable satisfaction rather than ambitious experiences that might disappoint. Split knows what it is and does it really well.
The Roman palace setting adds just enough historical interest, the island access provides adventure options, and the general Mediterranean vibe creates that perfect summer holiday atmosphere.
The Bottom Line
Split does exactly what it says on the tin – good weather, good food, clear water, relaxed vibe, and easy island access. It delivered on all counts without any major surprises or disappointments.
It’s the kind of place that reminds you why people love Mediterranean holidays. Not every destination needs to be life-changing or Instagram-revolutionary. Sometimes you just want a place that works well and makes you feel relaxed.
Split is that place. It’s honest, pleasant, and delivers exactly the experience you’d expect from Croatian coast tourism. In a world of overhyped destinations, that reliability is actually pretty valuable.
Have you been to Split or other Croatian coastal cities? Did you find the island hopping as rewarding as the main destination? What’s your take on destinations that deliver exactly what they promise versus places that surprise you? Share your Croatian coast experiences in the comments!
